The Swagger Coat

Most 1930s clothes are about fitting close to the body, so the swagger coat is a nice surprise. It's cut to do the opposite: fitted only at the shoulders, then flaring out into a loose, swinging A-shape that falls away from the waist and hips. The name suits it perfectly. You can't really walk in one without a bit of a swagger.

The shape is simple. Most swagger coats were three-quarter length or full length, fastened only at the neck or with a single button, or left open, and they hung straight from the shoulder with lots of extra width at the hem. Many had raglan sleeves, which made the flare look smooth and continuous from neck to hem, and big collars or wide lapels. Tweeds and soft wools were the classic fabrics, often in checks or flecked country colours, and smarter versions came in plain wool with fur collars. Some were sold as a "swagger suit," with a matching slim skirt.

It worked because of what went underneath. The typical 1930s day dress was slim and bias-cut, close through the hips, with a longer hem. A fitted coat over that could look stiff and heavy, and it would crush the dress. A loose swagger coat skimmed over the top without touching it, and its flare balanced the narrow skirt below. It also carried the decade's emphasis on the shoulder: all the structure was up there, and everything else was left to swing. Add a tilted hat, gloves, and a small bag, and you have a very typical mid-1930s street look.

It was also practical and fairly forgiving. A loose coat didn't need precise fitting, so it was easier to buy off the rack or make at home, and it suited a wide range of figures. It went over sporty clothes and smarter dresses alike, which fit the decade's more active, outdoor lifestyle. The same basic idea - a flared, easy coat over a slimmer dress - returned in the 1950s as the swing coat, though that one had to cover a much fuller skirt. For me, the swagger coat is one of the most wearable 1930s pieces today: comfortable, flattering, and instantly elegant.