Godets and the Flared Hem

The ideal 1930s skirt was slim and smooth over the hips, then flared out gracefully toward a mid-calf or longer hem, swinging as the wearer walked. The bias cut was one way to achieve that, but it was expensive, used a lot of fabric, and was difficult to sew. For everyday dresses, especially ones made at home or by manufacturers on a budget, the more common solution was the godet.

A godet is a triangular or fan-shaped piece of fabric set into a seam or a slash in the skirt, with its point toward the waist and its widest part at the hem. The skirt stays close-fitting above the godet, then opens out below it into extra fullness exactly where it's wanted. 1930s dresses use godets in all sorts of ways: at the side seams, in the centre front and back, in pairs, or in sets all around the skirt. They're often combined with gored skirts - skirts made from several shaped panels that narrow at the waist and widen at the hem - and with seamed yokes at the hip. Designers also loved decorative versions, with godets cut from contrasting fabric, set in with pointed or scalloped tops, or finished with pleats.

What I love about godets is how clever they are. They give the look of a much more expensive, bias-cut skirt using fabric cut on the straight grain, which is easier to handle and more economical. Setting in a godet neatly takes skill, especially getting a sharp, flat point at the top, but it's a very achievable technique for a home dressmaker, and 1930s pattern companies used them constantly. If you look at a 1930s house dress and wonder how it gets that lovely swing at the hem, the answer is usually a godet or two.